19th- Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 2. 2011
In the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais element found in a small space many Baroque towns such as Ouro Preto, in the one in the truest sense of the word brilliant past recall.
By Simone Good leg
Brazil has secrets that only they flashed across the Palm Beaches. One of these is the member state of Minas Gerais, an area with a golden floor. In a small area here produced many fine examples of colonial architecture, Baroque towns such as Ouro Preto, reminiscent of a bygone time. And here is all that glitters is gold. At least in the parish church of Nossa Senhora do Pilar. From floor to ceiling with the finest gold leaf carvings are covered. Whoever has always stood with the scale next to it: 434 kilograms of the precious metal to be processed in this church. This makes it one of the richest gold churches in Brazil, and gold, the country has not many churches
Since their arrival in Brazil, the Portuguese conquerors had frantically searched but in vain for gold and precious stones. While the Spaniards in Mexico and Peru, the Gold rake in tons, had be satisfied by the Portuguese for a long time with the laborious cultivation of sugar cane. Not until 200 years later in the adventurers discovered undeveloped mountain land the coveted medal. It was black, colored by iron oxide in soil. The city was Ouro Preto ("Black Gold") baptized, the region of Minas Gerais ("General Mines").
The discovery unleashed a legendary gold rush. In more than a hundred years promoted the treasure hunters to light about 1,200 tons, about 80 percent of world production at that time, not counting the diamonds and precious stones. More and more cities were established, transforming the riches in art. Ouro Preto was the mid-18th Century is remembered as one of the largest and most beautiful cities in the New World.
still the place to this colorful past, a total work of art that honored the 1980 UNESCO . Not a single building fascinating, but the combination of baroque churches and elegant townhouses in the narrow streets with cobblestones. Even the widely curving mountain landscape is baroque. Rome is nothing compared to this large number of steep hills, with houses of worship are decorated. At least eleven Baroque church is one of the city, a nicer than the other. Who wants to see all need mountaineering skills and a good condition.
It was apparent Portuguese builder at work, but they developed their own style, the "Barocco Mineiro." Carried by the gold boom, carpentered, carved, chiseled and painted them in abundance and exuberance. was called, is closely linked with the Minas-Baroque and the local sculptor Antonio Francisco Lisboa (1738-1814), the Aleijadinho ("cripple"), because he suffered from a leprosy-like disease. Despite his crippled hands he created altars and sculptures of rare beauty that will be with creations by Balthasar Neumann Tilman Riemenschneider compared.
The Church of São Francisco de Assis is considered his masterpiece. But take a few other places of worship Aleijadinho handwriting. "Look, look," he reportedly said, "see what I'm capable of." Blink from anywhere in the churches of his little darlings down, the chubby, wild-haired angel from soapstone, which are also the dealers of the nearby craft market, the beloved. See frenzied sales. The city's Foyer is the main square Praça de Tiradentes with the Governor's Palace and the monument Tiradentes, "the fighter for the independence of the country. With the tourists also multiply the self-appointed guide and agents of the diamond business, all modern fortune seekers.
The gold, however, exhausted by the end of the 18th Century. The adventurers moved on, Ouro Preto fell into insignificance. At the end of the 19th Century the city had even the status of the capital of Minas Gerais to the approximately 100 kilometers to Belo Horizonte to cede. As a visitor can be safely regarded as the lucky because Ouro Preto remained so almost unchanged.
also the neighboring Mariana sees the big thing of the past yet. With tourists these 52 000-inhabitant city is right to mercy, because almost all sights are within walking distance. Compared to the old town hall, the Carmelites and the Franciscans Church are vying for the rank of the most beautiful place. And splurge on Rua Direita two-storey Town houses with wrought-iron balconies, beautiful framed doors and windows. So much money was there that the inhabitants of 1701 for its cathedral even an organ by Arp Schnitger contributed from Germany. Of the 964 organ pipes up to the registers everything had been done on mules from the coast to the mountains. Since a thorough restoration it sounds again.
After about ninety kilometers followed by another freeze. Would be in Congonhas do Campo is not the sanctuary Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos in 1771, would be this small town probably leave next. But she holds the ennobled by UNESCO Treasury, the pilgrimage to the summit of Morro Maranhão. The steep climb to the basilica sweeten six chapels which adorn 52 Cedar figures of Aleijadinho.
The real eye-catcher is above the terrace with the living great prophets. This last great work of the Baroque virtuosos emerged with almost human use. Plagued by serious illness, is Aleijadinho had chopped off aching limbs themselves. But even then he did not give up. He had rather the tools bind to the hand stumps and carried away by slaves on the scaffolding. When he chiselled Jonas, Zacharias and the other prophets in the 1800-1805 blocks of stone, the gold mines hardly gave her anything. The gold rush was already over.
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